Holiday Shopping Help

Holiday Shopping Help

I've been working in retail at Best Buy since May 3rd, 2001, and other retail stores off-and-on for many other years, so I think I know a little about what I'm about to speak of. My mother is also notorious for being one of the most organized holiday shoppers I've ever met. She has about 99% of her holiday shopping done before Halloween! I've seen some people with a "game plan" who do well every year, and then there's the rest of us. So, if you're always finding yourself buying gifts at the last minute for people you've forgotten about, fighting traffic only to find yourself going back to a store you just left because you forgot something, then here's some help, hints, and tips...

1. Plan well before shopping. Think of it like grocery shopping, with Santa thrown in there! Make a list and check it twice! LOL, sorry, couldn't resist! :-)

A. One way is to go through any sort of lists you already have, such as your Address Book/Contacts on your computer, your actual address/phone numbers book, your cellphone or PDA, etc. Anything that will help you remember everyone to buy for. If you don't have a good word processor or spreadsheet such as Microsoft Office to help you create an organized shopping list, then I recommend to either use OpenOffice.org at http://www.openoffice.org or Google Docs at https://docs.google.com. Both are 100% free. Word processors are the easiest to use, but I find spreadsheets more useful since they can organize information and calculate numbers. However, if you prefer using pen and paper over using a computer to organize your holiday shopping list, try to use a pencil with an eraser instead to correct any mistakes you made. Also be sure to take a pencil with you while you're shopping to make last minute revisions and to check-off people and items you've bought. A very small notepad wouldn't be a bad idea, since it's easier to write on and can hold a lot of information.

B. Categorize people by their relationship to you. Here's an example:

1. Siblings
2. Half-Siblings
3. Step-Siblings
4. Kids
5. Grandkids
6. Parents
7. Step-Parent
8. In-Laws
9. Grandparents
10. Uncles on your father's side
11. Aunts on your father's side
12. Cousins on your father's side
13. Uncles on your mother's side
14. Aunts on your mother's side
15. Cousins on your mother's side
16. Close, immediate friends
17. Not-so-close friends ;-)

...Or however you wish. Categorizing everyone helps you remember who all to buy for.

C. Time to brainstorm! List any immediate needs you may be aware of that each person may need. Clothing or gift cards to clothing stores is usually a good choice, however, remember to buy for them and NOT what you would buy for yourself! People have different tastes, even if you dislike theirs. My wife and I make donations to Goodwill and Salvation Army each year because of clothing that either we or our kids can't wear or choose not to wear!

D. List any hobbies or interests for each person. Try to be as specific as possible! The more thought you put into it, the more thoughtful the gift will be.

E. Now, really try to brainstorm on this one. List any other details for each person, especially anything consumable (eventually runs out after a while), such as a cologne, perfume, or lotions they like to wear, exotic coffees and teas, food products such as candy or nuts, etc.

F. Now for the tough part. Decide how much you want to spend on each person within your own budget! Don't forget to include the price of holiday greeting cards and envelopes! Also, if you have to ship any gifts to people, try to calculate how much it might cost:

• USPS (United States Postal Service)
  
• UPS (United Parcel Service)
• FedEx

G. And for the toughest part, try to pick a gift you'd like to buy that person within the limitations of what you've decided to spend on them. The Internet is great for doing "price-checks" for gifts. These huge lists of major retailers may help:

• http://www.google.com/Top/Shopping/General_Merchandise/Major_Retailers/
• http://dir.yahoo.com/Business_and_Economy/Shopping_and_Services/Retailers/

Going to major retailers' websites may also give you some gift ideas. Also visiting websites such as:

• Amazon at http://www.amazon.com/
  
• eBay at http://www.ebay.com
• Google Product Search at http://www.google.com/products
• Yahoo! Shopping at http://shopping.yahoo.com/

These websites may give you some gift ideas, as well, along with weekly sales ads. Remember that it's ok if you can't pick a gift for everyone before you leave the house! If all else fails, a gift card to their favorite local store or restaurant is a great idea! Also, looking for general, vague gift ideas and writing them down throughout the year helps you prepare far in advance.

2. This is optional, but may save you some stress. Choose two gifts, a "primary" gift and a "secondary" gift or an "alternative" gift, for each person. The reason for this is because of this time of year, it's very common for retailers to run out of stock on popular items, especially those on sale. Having a "backup plan" may eliminate unneeded stress and time.

3. "Odd and unusual" gifts have their pros and cons. The pros are that if it's a gift most people would never buy for someone, you usually don't have to worry about if they're in stock or not. But what could be a con is would they ever use or wear this "odd and unusual" gift? Have you ever seen them ever use or wear anything like it before? Choose wisely, or it could be a "re-gift", and they may just give it back to you next year! ;-)

4. This is also totally optional, but any research you do on any items such as reading reviews, and familiarize yourself with stores' return policies may come in handy, and all retailers are different! The more you know about what you're buying and the return policies of where you're buying it at, the better. Customer Service people are the best to ask about store policies, since they have to live and breathe them everyday. When in doubt, ask (if you can find someone TO ask)! Once again, the Internet may also be a good source of detailed information. Here's some websites that may help:

• Product Reviews at http://www.consumersearch.com
• Consumer Opinions at http://www.epinions.com
• Store Return Policies at http://return-policy.info

5. After you've planned who to buy for, what to spend, and what to buy, now it's time to plan-out your shopping day. Plan to buy from as few stores as possible to save time and gas, and don't forget to visit their website to make sure they sell the item you're looking for and have plenty of them in stock! Becoming familiar where specific items are located within a store saves a lot of time. Many retailers' websites will display if you can buy that item in the store or not, or better yet, simply buy the items online at least a few weeks in advance to save both time and gas! Map-out the locations of the stores you're going to, trying to shop at any stores on one side of town, and making either a clockwise or counter-clockwise loop around town. I used to work for a delivery/postal service many years ago, and learned well of how to do this. Here are some mapping websites you can use:

• Google Maps at http://maps.google.com
• MapQuest at http://www.mapquest.com
• Yahoo! Maps at http://maps.yahoo.com

6. Try to go to bed early the night before your big shopping day and get plenty of sleep. Taking a Tylenol PM at least eight hours before you have to wake-up probably wouldn't hurt, either. ;-) Start getting ready as early as possible on that day! Many retailers may have extended holiday hours. Find out what time the stores open and close, along with filling-up your vehicle with plenty of gas, at least a day or two in advance, and try to plan to get at our first store several minutes early, if at all possible. Any items on sale may run out of stock before you get there, so remember the old saying, "the early bird catches the worm". Dress comfortably, drink plenty of caffeine, eat something semi-healthy and substantial, and use the bathroom BEFORE you leave the house! And don't forget your shopping list, a pencil, and some Extra Strength Tylenol! The fewer stops you have to make, the better!
I would consider a semi-healthy breakfast with some substance could be something like a few eggs lightly covered in cheddar cheese (or an omelet), whole wheat toast with butter/margarine and honey/jam/jelly, along with some low-sodium bacon or low-sodium ham. Why low-sodium products versus regular or turkey-based products? First of all, sodium (salt) is known to dehydrate you, thus making you thirsty and making more trips to the restroom. Secondly, turkey contains an amino acid that makes you sleepy, which is something else you DON'T need to also combat on the day of your holiday shopping! However, eating turkey for dinner the night before your big holiday shopping day is highly recommended! And since fish is considered "brain food", eating some for lunch the day before and the day of may also help. If you need some coffee with a kick to get you moving in the morning, then I also highly recommend reading my Power Mocha blog.

7. Now, it's time put your patience and manners to the test, for both your fellow man and for the poor people at the retail stores you're visiting! Remember, there are hundreds of you and only one of me!!! Those Extra Strength Tylenol you brought may come in handy (and please don't be greedy with them, either!), and listen to your favorite calming and soothing music in the car! LOL Like everyone else, everybody is also trying to shop for their friends and family, and this time of the year gets crazy stupid. Being kind goes a long way, everything from keeping your cool in traffic, letting people have that parking spot close to the store (who's reading this DON'T need the exercise anyways?!), finding an alternative gift in case someone just grabbed that last one that you wanted, to standing in long lines at the checkout lane. If you're trying to do most or all of your shopping in one day, plan on making an entire day out of it, just don't forget to bring some extra money for coffee, soda, water, food, and snacks. And take it from someone who's been in the business for a while, telling those poor retail people to have a nice day just made it a little better for them. We enjoy what little kindness we get from the 1% of holiday shoppers who show it.

8. As you're shopping, take notes of other gift ideas for other people, if you're unable to purchase the item that day. Don't forget to write down where the item was in the store, estimate how many they had in stock that day, and the price (both sales and regular prices) on your shopping list or in your notepad. Most sales prices start on Sundays and end on Saturdays, except for special sales such as "Black Friday" (the day after Thanksgiving). Also, most major retailers publish their weekly sales ads on their website, as well, and the links are usually located either at the top or the bottom of their web page. So, even if you don't receive their weekly sales ads in the mail, you can still view their "paperless" (electronic) version online.

If I think of any other ideas, I'll update this post. If anyone has any suggestions, please post them!

Computer PC Buying Guide

Computer Buying Guide

So, you're possibly thinking about either buying a new computer? I see people buying computers day-in and day-out who don't have any idea as what to purchase. I'm hoping that the few of you who stumbled across this guide may find it somewhat helpful, and I'll try to keep it as simple as possible.

An Important Note: Since technology is constantly changing, instead of writing a guide based upon what current technologies are available just for this guide to be outdated quickly, I'll base this guide upon dollar amounts, since in the end, it's what you can afford to buy will determine what computer you will get.

Buy New or Used?

If you can afford it, always try to buy a new computer. I can't count how many times that I've seen defective computers sold to innocent buyers. However, if you're planning to buy a used computer, always make sure that:

1. You know and trust the person or people you are buying from
2. It powers on
3. It doesn't show obvious signs of malware (computer infections)
4. It can load and run most common software programs installed
5. It can connect to the internet
6. It comes with Recovery Discs so that you can erase the HDD (Hard Disk Drive) and reinstall the OS (operating system), when needed
7. If possible, try to research what you're buying, especially its age and how much similar computers are being sold on an auction website, such as eBay at http://www.ebay.com.
8. You have at least a week of where you can test it and return it for a full refund, if necessary

If you buy a new computer, I highly recommend to familiarize yourself with the retailer's return policy, including any restocking fees that may apply if you decide to return your computer for an exchange or refund. Don't make ANY assumptions!!! Different retailers have different return policies and stocking fees!

Mac or PC?

Honestly, this is a decision based upon your previous computing experience, if you have any. Most people who grew-up using Macs prefer Macs, and most people who grew-up using PCs prefer PCs. It's as simple as that. Macs are defined as computers being manufactured by Apple, and is running a Macintosh operating system; whereas PCs is a general term of a computer running a Microsoft Windows operating system. Opinions of "ease of use" will often greatly differ, depending upon what you are currently comfortable with and what you personally define as "easy to use". PCs are most commonly used in the home and business environments, whereas Macs are most commonly used in the computer arts (graphics and sound) world. However, there are pros and cons to owning either one that make them very different, if not completely opposite of each other...

PC Pros:

• Much larger variety and brands of PCs to choose from, starting from $200 to well over $1,000. Custom-built "gaming" computers can even greatly vary between $2,000 all the way up to $10,000! There is a HUGE difference in performance between the $200 computer versus a $2,000 computer!
• Most PCs, especially those bought from a local major retailer, are usually much less expensive than Macs.
• Much bigger variety of components (computer hardware parts) and software program titles are available for PCs versus Macs, and are easier to find locally.
• Many more local authorized repair shops that can service PCs under manufacturer's warranty.
• Usually easier to replace and upgrade components (computer hardware parts), and more "computer geeks" are more comfortable repairing and upgrading PCs versus Macs.

PC Cons:

• Much more malware (computer infections) currently exist for PCs than Macs.
• Much of the software preinstalled are trials (time limited) and not the full versions.
• Phone technical support is usually outsourced overseas, and is usually very frustrating to use.
• Inexpensive PCs usually have lesser quality parts.

Mac Pros:

• Higher quality parts specifically designed to function and work properly, much like a finely-tuned engine.
• Much more stable with much fewer issues and problems versus PCs, including malware (computer infections).
• Usually better phone technical support.
• Comes with full version software already preinstalled.
• Better software for audio and video editing.

Mac Cons:

• Fewer choices. You have a choice of Apple, Apple, or Apple.
• More expensive than most PCs you can buy from a local retailer, usually starting at $1,000 or more.
• Much fewer components (computer hardware parts) and software program titles that's compatible with Macs, and much of which has to be ordered.
• Much stricter manufacturer's warranty. Many repairs must be shipped directly to Apple.
• Much fewer local authorized repair shops that can service Macs under manufacturer's warranty.
• Usually more difficult to replace or upgrade parts. Many, but not all, "computer geeks" dread upgrading or repairing Macs.

Due to the current market share and the variety of PCs available, the rest of this guide is targeted towards PC buyers...

PC Brands: Many people ask which brand is better than another, and these opinions will change often. However, when a PC "breaks", many people identify the issue with the brand instead of the operating system that it is running, when in reality, over 80% of PC repairs are usually repairing the Microsoft Windows operating system and not the actual components (computer hardware parts). However, at the time of this writing, I once read that an independent company studied computer component (hardware) repairs, and rated Dell and Toshiba as having the best "track record", but this doesn't necessarily mean you won't have issues or problems if you purchase from either of these manufacturers. When you work on the other side of the repair counter, you literally see everything come in, but don't assume it has something to do with the computer brand, but most likely due to the operating system in which the computer is running.

The next thing we need to do is identify what type of PC user you are or will be. Even though PCs can be used for multiple purposes, I've created five categories of very common PC user types:

Entry-Level Computer User: All you do or will do is just check your e-mail and surf the internet, print an occasional document, and that's about it. You're not interested into anything graphical, such as games (except Solitaire), creating photo albums, or anything else you would consider "high-tech". Docs, e-mail, and web surfing is about it. Younger kids just learning to use computers and seniors, who are usually very wary of technology, generally fall under this category.

Home/Office User Or Student: Besides doing e-mail and web surfing, you also use office and productivity applications, such as Microsoft Office and Intuit's Quicken or QuickBooks for doing your finances, or for doing school projects. You may dabble a little with the occasional photo editing, such as removing red-eye and cropping pictures, but nothing extensive.

Minor Multimedia/Gaming: Besides e-mail, web surfing, and using office applications, you also enjoy editing and modifying pictures and creating photo albums, downloading and editing audio (such as music), and perhaps even dabble with burning videos. You rip and burn your music so you can take it with you wherever you go. You may also play web-based games and older games, but the graphics are usually "old-school", and are usually Flash or Java-based games (card games, RuneScape, etc.)

Moderate Multimedia/Gaming: Besides all of the above, you like to do heavy photo editing and video editing, or perhaps dabble with CAD or graphics design. You may even want to use your computer as a DVR/PVR to record live movies and shows directly from cable or satellite. You may also play many newer games that require better computer hardware to play, but you are a gamer with a limited budget who would like to have the "best of the best", but can't afford it.

Extreme Multimedia/Gaming: You must have the "best of the best". When you buy or build a new rig, you want the latest and greatest technology, and don't have to worry upgrading it for hopefully a few years. You may also do extensive graphics design, or play the newest games as soon as they come out. You want the best frame rates running at the highest resolution possible.

Once you have identified what type of PC user you are or will be, it's time to move on to Part 2...

PC Buying Guide

Buying a PC is often much cheaper than custom building one yourself. So, unless you're a computer enthusiast or hobbyist, it's cheaper to buy one from a local retailer. After identifying what type of PC user you are, here are some things to look for, based upon the category you fall in:

Recommendations For Everyone:

Always keep in mind, you get what you pay for!!!

Internet and Protection Software:

For anyone who will be using the internet, whether it's just to visit a few websites a week or playing an online MMORPG (Massive Multiplayer Online Role-Playing Game), don't skip out on protection software! I've seen infected computers even from those who only visit "the same few websites a week". You get what you pay for, and when you do the research, paid-for protection software always do a better job protecting you against malware (computer infections) than freebies. I currently recommend Webroot SpySweeper with AntiVirus for computer novices, or Kaspersky AntiVirus for advanced computer users. Honestly, IMHO (In My Humble Opinion), I've never been impressed with any McAfee or Norton products, and find other products with a much better detection rate (how well they are able to find and remove most malware). Plus, Norton and McAfee products tend to cause more issues and problems than prevent them.

Desktops:

As with the protection software, don't also skip out on the power/surge protection, either, especially if you're dropping several hundred bucks on your new desktop computer! Stay away from "power bars" or "power strips", and spend a few extra bucks getting a battery backup. Not worried about losing any personal data or keeping your computer running during a power outage? Those are only the minor benefits of having a battery backup. The main reason is to help prolong the life of your desktop computer. Computers were designed to have regulated electricity, at a consistent and constant rate. However, the power that flows from your power outlet doesn't do so. Your computer will often take constant abuse from brown-outs throughout the day anytime a major appliance turns on (such as your dryer), and then spikes when the major appliance turns off. This takes a toll on your computer's power supply and other internal parts. What an $80 battery backup costs you now may save you hundreds of dollars to repair or replace your desktop computer later. Don't take the risk!

Laptops:

Don't get a cheap carrying bag or case! The better quality the bag or case is, the better your laptop is protected while getting bumped and jarred while being carried around. Also, try not to move your laptop around too much while it's in use!

Entry-Level Computer User:

Details: All you need is the least expensive computer you can buy. No "bells and whistles", no fancy gizmos, and just a very basic computer that can connect to the internet. However, if you may want to do more later, I don't advise making an entry-level computer your primary computer! These are often great as a secondary computer for people who wish to do more on their primary computer.

Features To Look For: Internet connectivity

Recommended Hardware: Printer (for the occasional printing)

Recommended Software: OpenOffice.org is a free office application for occasionally creating and editing documents, spreadsheets, etc., but recommended only for home use (however, not recommended for academics or business).

General Price Range: $200 - $400

What To Buy: Netbooks are perfect as an entry-level computer (always remember that most netbooks don't come with a CD/DVD drive!), but there are also entry-level desktops and laptops, usually for a few bucks more.

Home/Office User Or Student:

Details: Besides having internet connectivity, you will probably be using office applications and financial software very frequently.

Features To Look For: Microsoft Office and a financial software program, such as Microsoft Money, or Intuit's Quicken or Quickbooks.

Recommended Hardware:

• Air Card, and/or wireless connection (usually integrated, to connect to wireless "hotspots")
• All-In-One Printer/Copier/Scanner
• Flash Drive (also known as a Pen or Thumb Drive, it's not only used as a backup to keep a second copy of your data, but to take your Microsoft Office documents, spreadsheets, and presentations with you everywhere you go to use on other computers)

Recommended Software: Besides Microsoft Office and a financial software program (such as Microsoft Money, or Intuit's Quicken or Quickbooks), but also free photo editing program, such as Picasa, should suffice for doing minor photo editing.

General Price Range: $400 - $600

What To Buy: Laptops are great for anyone on the go, who mostly uses their computer for academics or small business. Pair a laptop with an air card, and you can connect anywhere that has a cell phone signal.

Minor Multimedia/Gaming User:

Details: Play some web-based games, minor photo editing, audio burning and ripping, and maybe some video burning (but not video editing).

Recommended Hardware:

• CD/DVD Burner to rip and burn your CDs (most computers come with them).
• Small or medium-sized external hard drive to backup a second copy of your music, photos and videos.
• Inexpensive video card that's not integrated (built) into the motherboard, that ranges in price from about $25 - $125.
• Integrated (built-in) 2.1 or 5.1 channel sound card.

Recommended Software:

• Inexpensive CD burning and ripping software (about $20 - $60)
• Inexpensive photo editing software (also about $20 - $60)

General Price Range: $600 - $800

What To Buy: Many laptops can easily handle the demands of minor photo editing and video burning, and play web-based or low-end games, but desktops will generally do it a lot faster for the same price.

Moderate Multimedia/Gaming User:

Details: Extensive photo and video editing, serious audio and video ripping and burning, and perhaps even dabble with graphics design a little. You may want to use your computer as a DVR/PVR to record live movies and shows from live (streaming) cable or satellite. Perhaps play some of the newest games without spending a fortune on the latest and greatest.

Recommended Hardware:

• CD/DVD/Blu-Ray Burner to rip and burn anything and everything known to man.
• Add another internal hard drive to help store ripped videos and other large files onto (desktops only).
• Large external hard drive to backup a second copy of your documents, spreadsheets, presentations, pictures, and videos onto.
• Mid-range video card (about $150 - $250)
• TV Tuner card to use your computer as a DVR/PVR (about $35 - $50)
• Inexpensive 5.1 or 7.1 channel sound card (about $25 - $50)

Recommended Software:

• Media ripping and burning software (about $100+)
• Photo and video editing software (about $100+)

General Price Range: $800 - $1,000

What To Buy: This is where desktops start outshining laptops, especially if you want to use the computer as a DVR/PVR, but some of the really high-end laptops can still keep-up. You will spend a lot more money for a laptop for the same features as a desktop.

Hints And Tips: The computer will also run a bit faster if you partition about 5GB - 10GB for a swap file (virtual memory) towards the beginning of the new internal hard drive and move the swap file to there from the original factory hard drive.

Extreme Multimedia/Gaming User:

Details: You want something that makes your friends drool, something that can edit and play anything new, and something you don't have to upgrade anytime soon. Money is of little consequence. Even though you may be buying a "Gaming Series" computer, here is a good way to increase the speed of your new computer even more! Hard drives are often the biggest "bottleneck" (decrease of performance) in your computer, but not usually in the terms of what many people think. Instead of having "too much data" causing your computer to run slow, it's actually how it accesses the data is what slows down your computer. Running RAID 0 (Stripping) will greatly increase your new computer's performance, for about $300 to $600 more.

Recommended Hardware:

• Two 10,000 rpm internal hard drives (about $100 - $200 each)
• RAID Controller Card (about $100 - $200)
• Very large external hard drive to backup a second copy of your documents, spreadsheets, presentations, pictures, and videos onto.
• High-end video card (about $300 - $500)

General Price Range: $1,000+

What To Buy: For serious graphics for gaming, video editing, or graphic design, you really should buy a desktop computer, and usually the manufacturer's "Gaming Series" (Alienware, Dell XPS, Gateway FX, etc.).

Setting-Up Your New Gaming Desktop:

1. Backup your documents, spreadsheets, presentations, pictures, videos, and anything else you need to keep onto your external hard drive from your old computer.
2. Immediately create Recovery Discs after you setup your new computer and operating system (if the computer didn't come with any).
3. Shut down your new computer.
4. Temporarily remove the factory hard drive (put it away somewhere safe for the time being because you may need to use it later).
5. Install the RAID controller card along with the new 10,000 rpm internal hard drives.
6. Setup the RAID as Stripping (follow the directions for RAID Level 0 depending upon your RAID controller card).
7. Install the operating system or use your Recovery Discs to do so. You may need to install the RAID controller card driver during the installation.
8. Once the operating system or Recovery Discs have been installed and setup, shut down the computer and reinstall the original factory internal hard drive.
9. Format (erase) the original factory hard drive. I recommend creating two hard drive partitions on the original factory hard drive:
10. The first partition should be about 5GB, and should contain your swap file (virtual memory).
11. Use the rest of the hard drive for your personal data files, such as documents, pictures, and videos.
12. Copy your personal data files from your external hard drive onto the newly erased internal hard drive partition and use it for your personal data (such as documents, pictures, videos, etc.).

I hope this guide will help you in purchasing that new computer!

My Algebra Rant

My Algebra Rant

I'm taking an Introductory Algebra class (MAT 70) during this summer semester so I can take a further advanced math class later, and I'm struggling as usual.  I am doing very well in my Expository Writing class (Eng 111), because I use English every day.  I speak it and I write it... each and every day.  I remember most of the "rules" of English because I constantly use it.

Math, however, outside of very basic arithmatic, I hardly ever use.  In fact, the last time I've had to divide and multiply fractions by variables was well over a decade ago, the last time I was taking a math class in college in the early to mid 90's.  As with other (useless and worthless) classes I must take, I keep getting reassured by instructors why I must take and pass these classes – to fill-up empty and meaningless void and space, I mean, to "make me a better-rounded student."  Whatever.  I can promise you that I'll never apply for a job that requires for me to spend more than a few seconds figuring out a simple math problem!  Nor do any jobs in my chosen career path require for me to do so.

Personally, I would think it would be for my benefit and the benefit of my future job employer to take more classes related to my chosen career path.  For example, I'm in Networking Technologies to become a computer network administrator.  Much like the medical field, I can simply take the minimal classes to get my 2-year associates degree and become a "general practicioner", or I can take other classes and become more of a "specialist".  But instead of getting credited for additional networking classes that would better serve me, I'm required to take other unrelated classes, instead.  If I wanted to take other related classes, I must go back and earn additional  certifications that's not required for my 2-year associates degree, adding yet another semester or two, or possibly more.  Since I'm working full-time to support my family, it's gonna take me 4 years already just to earn a 2-year associates degree.  But you have to do what you have to do, whether or not it makes sense.

I'm convinced that the only people who actually need to learn advanced mathematics are engineering and scientific fields, or just the people who are required to teach it to others.  If the majority of math students are to simply become teachers to teach it to other people, then what's the point?  It would be like saying that a majority of medical and technical students were simply to teach it to other people, but that's hardly the case.  The majority of us will use our applied learning towards an actual profession, and not just for teaching it to others.  Is it me, or does this seem somewhat ridiculous?  The only "math-related professions" I know of is to simply be a "math professor". 

And honestly, I'm not speaking negatively about math professors, because I understand that we need mathematics.  I was temporarily in Computer Engineering, and know how important math is.  Everyone uses some form of math in some way or another, but at least 95% of us will never use anything above basic arithmatic throughout our entire lives.  Using this as an example, it would be like requiring all college students to take an advanced computer programming class.  Why?  Because since a few of us may use it, then everyone must take it.  I have better things to do with my limited time.  Just teach me what I need to know, so I get started on with my career, is all.

 

Now I'm done wasting my breath, and time to do some algebra homework...

Power Mocha

Power Mocha

DISCLAIMER:
As with anything with high dosages or quantities of artificial sweeteners, caffeine, and/or glucose (sugar), some ingredients can have either short-term and/or long-term side effects, such as different forms of cancer, cardiac-related (heart), diabetes, and/or weight-related health problems, especially over prolonged use. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! You've been warned, and I CANNOT be held responsible! Many of the supplements listed below are links to Wikipedia so you can personally decide whether or not to use these supplements. However, since this "recipe" doesn't contain any artificial colors or preservatives, and the only artificial flavoring is what you add to it, this "recipe" is much safer to drink than most energy drinks. Please also see a "Safer" But Less "Potent" Version Of Power Mocha below:

I like to make a simple "recipe" of what I called "Power Mocha" to wake me up in the mornings and get me going. You can even make it low-carb! Here's what you'll need:

• Blender
• Coffee Maker
• 4 to 6 Cups of Mineral Water
  
• Medium-Dark (such as Columbian or French Roast) or Dark, STRONG Ground Coffee (your preference)
  

Ingredients:

• Coffee Creamer or Milk (your preference), or a little of both (adjust to preferred taste)
• Sugar or Artificial Sweetener (your preference, and adjust to preferred taste)
• Chocolate-Flavored Whey Protein Powder (one serving size)
  
• Chocolate-Flavored Carnation Instant Breakfast Essentials Powder Drink Mix or other varieties, such as the No Sugar Added (one packet or serving size)
  

Optional Liquid/Powder Supplements (One Serving Size Of Each):
Most of these can be purchased at most department stores, such as WalMart; or health stores, such as GNC (General Nutrition Center) or The Vitamin Shoppe...

• Amino Acid Complex (make sure it contains L-Carnitine, Phenylalanine, and Tyrosine)
  
• Citicoline
  
• Creatine (recommend no more than 3g per day)
  
• Ginko Biloba (recommend no more than 200mg per day)
  
• Ginseng
• Glucuronolactone
  
• Guarana or Guaranine (added caffeine, so be careful!!!)
• Inositol
• Multivitamin/Multimineral (such as Centrum Liquid)
• Taurine

If you can't find the liquid or powder version of any of these supplements to add, simply take the pill form as you're drinking your Power Mocha.

Directions:

1. Simply make 4 to 6 cups of Medium-Dark or Dark, STRONG Coffee as you would normally would
   
2. Pour the HOT Coffee into the Blender (be careful not to burn yourself!)
   
3. Add the Ingredients (one serving size of each) into the Blender
   
4. Add any Liquid/Powder Supplements (one serving size of each) you'd like into the Blender
   
5. Add the lid to the top of the blender and blend thoroughly for several seconds
   
6. Enjoy!

Other Varieties of the Power Mocha:

• Refrigerate overnight (8+ hours) for a Chilled Power Mocha, but you may need to quickly stir, shake, or re-blend it again in the morning.
  
• Add Ice into the Blender for an Iced Power Mocha (you may want to add an extra Tablespoon of Ground Coffee, before making the Coffee, as Ice tends to "water-down" the Coffee)
• Substitute any Chocolate-Flavored Ingredient for Vanilla-Flavored Ingredient to make a Vanilla Power Coffee (if all Ingredients are Vanilla-Flavored) or a Vanilla Power Mocha (any combination of both Chocolate-Flavored and Vanilla-Flavored Ingredients)

"Safer" But Less "Potent" Version Of Power Mocha:

• Substitute Mineral Water or Tap Water for Purified Water
  
• Substitute Regular Coffee for Decaffeinated Coffee
• Substitute Coffee Creamer for Non-Fat Coffee Creamer, and/or substitute Milk for Skim Milk
  
• Substitute Artificial Sweetener or Sugar for Stevia, or don't use any form of sweetener at all
  
• Don't add any Ginseng, Guarna or Guaranine
• Don't drink anything containing stimulants, including this Power Mocha "recipe", at least four to eight hours before bedtime to avoid insomnia.
  

Hope you enjoy!!!

Happy April Fool's Day

I just wanted to wish everyone a...

Happy (and safe) April Fool's Day!!!

Deep Thoughts and Nuggets Of Wisdom

"Deep Thoughts" & "Nuggets Of Wisdom"
Some of these quotes are original, some are not, and some are both, but none are neither... ;-)

• A good example is the best sermon, and a pint of example is worth a gallon of advice. You must first follow a good example before you can lead one, and sometimes the best advice you can give is to not give any.
• Always remember Murphy's Law... "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong." Try to view "a stroke of bad luck" more as "difficult lessons well learned", whenever possible. A smooth sea never made a skillful sailor, and if the going gets easy, you may be going downhill.
• Although multitasking is a wonderful talent few people have truly mastered, focusing your attention on each individual, sequencial task tend to lead to slower but better results. Be careful of biting off more than you can chew.
• Beggars can't be choosers. So if you are picky, it is best to work for what you want instead of asking for it. Appreciate all acts of kindness and gifts of generosity, since the giver had to work for what was given to you.
• Experience and knowledge are learned from making mistakes, whereas foresight and wisdom are gained from not repeating the same mistakes again. Since hindsight is always 20/20, hopefully your foresight should improve as well.
• Having a sharp tongue can cut your own throat. He who throws mud loses ground, so nobody raises his own reputation by lowering others. Treat others as you would like to be treated. In other words, "PLAY NICE!!!" Too many of us speak twice before we think, and putting your foot in your mouth leaves a bad taste. ;-)
• He who laughs last didn't get the joke. If anything, at least laugh at yourself. :-P~
• Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst. This is being "realistic" and NOT a pessimist. Always be thoroughly prepared, and leave as little to chance as possible. Failing to prepare is preparing to fail. Caution is not cowardly; Carelessness is not courage.
• Ideas won't work unless you do. Inspiration -> Motivation -> Preparation -> Activation -> Perspiration -> Innovation (rinse and repeat) :-)
• It is not the load that breaks you down, but it is the way you carry it, and the happiness of your life depends on the quality of your thoughts. So if you can laugh at it, then you can live with it.
• Jumping to conclusions can be bad exercise. Assume nothing. Assumptions tend to lead to disappointments and failures, whereas thorough analyzation and careful considerations tend to lead to satisfaction and success. There is nothing "anal" about being analytical. :-)
• Knowledge is power, and knowing is half the battle. G.I. Joe! LOL :-)
• No man knows less than the man who knows it all. Destructive criticism usually come from those who only '''THINK''' they can do it better, whereas constructive criticism usually come from those who are experienced and wise. It is much easier to be critical than to be correct.
• One who lacks courage to start has already finished. A quitter never wins, and a winner never quits. Failure is the path of least persistence, and people fail when they give-up. Change direction if you keep achieving the same undesirable results.
• Only when you take full responsibility of your own actions do you realize you have full control of your own destiny. Much of life is more-or-less "controlled chaos", and what you make of it determines its course.
• Seek joy in what you give and not in what you get. The smallest good deed is better than the grandest intention.
• Sometimes you need "a second pair of eyes" to find what you are looking for. Don't be afraid or too prideful to ask for help occasionally.
• The difference between ignorance and stupidity is the willingness to learn and understand. The difference between intelligence and wisdom is how the knowledge is applied and practiced.
• "Well done!" is better than "Well said!" However, actions may speak louder than words, but direction and forethought help actions speak more clearly; so think before you act or speak.
• When looking for faults, use a mirror instead of a telescope. The greatest of all faults is to imagine you have none. It is no crime not to be perfect.
• Work smarter, not harder. Keep well organized, and plan well ahead.
• You can polish a turd all you like, but in the end, it is still a well polished turd. LMAO 8-O

Many quotes are from "The Road To Success Is Always Under Construction" - Author Unknown

Wikipedia's List Of Virtues
Funny "Words To Live By" (PG-13: WARNING - Contains some offensive language!)

Retail Hell

This is a very L-O-N-G blog, and most of the information provided in this blog I've heard many of my managers, supervisors, and co-workers tell other customers. So, if anyone at Best Buy wants to take me down, then I'll be more than happy to take some managers and other employees with me. "I ain't sceered!" Hopefully, I don't think that'll happen. I'm not sure if I'm writing this to just vent, or to help people not in retail to either understand or at least know the basics of it all. I may even come back to edit or add more to this blog later as time goes on. But first, let me cover my back-history a little with retail...

I've been in retail, off-and-on, since I was about 10 years old (I'm currently 33, at the time of this writing), working at my Dad's local hardware store, loading fertilizer, cement, and other heavy objects for customers, cleaning, etc., anything a brawny 10 year-old could possibly do around a hardware store. Now, I've been working for Best Buy since May 3rd, 2001, worked in a few different sales departments, in inventory, and now at the Geek Squad for about a few years. So, I feel that I know a great deal about retail, everything from happens with the products coming into the store off of a shipment truck to what happens when the product comes back into the store because it's defective for whatever reason.

First of all, I've learned that the customer isn't always right, and whoever wrote that saying should be shot between the eyes with a very large handgun, or better yet, a rifle or a shotgun. But that's just my opinion. ;-) Most of our customers aren't very "tech-savvy" (which is fine, that's what we're here for), but no, we can't replace your desktop computer that you've had for over 2 years because your teenage son can't refrain himself from going to porn websites and downloading illegal music, along with computer infections! JFC… this is what I have to put-up with everyday. But this is the current path I have chosen, until my "corporate masters" sees this blog and terminates me. :-/ Anyways, back on track…

And unfortunately, as with most corporate businesses, we have a strict set of rules and guidelines (known to most of us in retail as SOP, or Standard Operation Platform). These rules are set by the corporate office people, who are usually out-of-reach and located far away from any direct contact with customers. LOL, J/K! :-) These rules are the "10 Commandments", if you will, of any business, but unfortunately, far more detailed and complex than just 10 commandments. In fact, I highly doubt there's any employee that knows all of SOP, inside and out, but after reading over the rules, you start getting the main "jest" of it all – which is basically, serve the customer in any way possible as long as it doesn't cost the company any profit, or money, and piss-off their stockholders. And that's the God-honest truth. When a product is brought back to where ever you bought it from, the first thing that's usually questioned is, "will we be reimbursed by the manufacturer of the product if we give the customer their money back or exchange their product for another one". And that's understandable. Retailers don't make the product, nor do they get it for free, and if they have to refund a customer's money back or exchange the product knowing that the manufacturer won't refund the company's money back to them, basically, the company just gave you their money or a free product at the company's expense. I have no clue as to how many products we refund or exchange for customers on a daily basis at the store I work at, but I'm sure it's literally in the hundreds per day, and is probably in the thousands of dollars. It's insane. For us, it's everything from music CDs to plasma TVs, stuff that costs anywhere between $10 to $6,000! So, with all of this in mind, to protect themselves from going taking too many losses and going bankrupt, most corporations have to have guidelines and rules set in place. And if we bend the rules for one person, then we have to bend the rules for everyone else standing in-line behind that person overhearing the conversation, and everyone that person tells what Best Buy did for them. I mean, wouldn't it piss you off to no end if the person right in front of you in-line was able to return an opened CD and you can't? Same rules apply to everyone.

Every day, I have at least a few customers to even a dozen customers wanting me to bend the rules for them, not knowing that if I bend the rules for anyone, even for myself, I am putting my job in jeopardy. I'm sorry, but I've got a wife and three kids to support, and unless you already have a job lined-up for me with at least the same pay and benefits that I already have, then your broke iPod just isn't quite as important to me as you think it should be. I'm always caught in the crossfire, understanding why the customer's irate because we can't replace their product for a new one or give them their money back, and also why the company set the rules to minimize losses, and unfortunately, I'm the "middle man" in all of this. And yes, even I have to abide by the same rules as the customers when I am the customer at my own store. I get no special treatment just because I work there. I've often had to ship my own personal products off for a few weeks at a time that I bought there as a customer on my days off, to get repaired, instead of getting them replaced or my money back. So, the same rules do apply to everyone, including all of the managers, supervisors, and employees that work there.

We have about 120 employees at the Best Buy I work at, so that's a lot of overhead, not including the people that work "behind the scenes", such as our corporate office people who make the rules, pass them down to the regional office people, who then pass them down to the district office people, then finally makes it to the local store managers, and so forth. And you can't forget about the people that work at our product distribution centers (warehouses), the truck drivers, and the technicians who work at our product service centers, etc. I can honestly say that there's probably far more many people that work "behind the scenes" in a corporate business than that of the actual employees that sell the products and services inside the store. So, when you come in a buy something, whether it be a $10 CD or a $6,000 plasma TV, the profit made from that product is distributed between a lot of people, not just the sales person who sold it to you. And don't forget about the other overhead, such as property rental and leasing, utilities, to even paying people to come in and clean the store every night after the store closes, or every morning before the store opens. When you start calculating how many people and how much Best Buy and other corporate businesses have to pay, it's mind-boggling! And what's even more mind-boggling is how little profit a company makes off of certain "big ticket" products, especially computers. On most computers, Best Buy makes roughly about 10% "profit". So, if you were to buy a computer with nothing else for about $500, Best Buy probably paid about $450 for it, and maybe made about $50 from it, give or take. For most people working on the side in a little business they own and run themselves, $50 isn't too bad. Hey, you just made $50! But in a large corporate business, when you start calculating everyone and everything that has to be paid, such as the sales person that sold you the computer, the inventory person that put-up the product, the truck driver that brought the computer to the store, to the people that handled the product at the distribution center (warehouse), to the other truck driver that brought the product to the distribution center from the manufacturer's warehouse, monthly lease, utilities, etc., with all of that in mind, the company just lost money on that computer sale. Most people have no idea how many people had to be paid just for that computer to get to the store, and for only $50.

If I only got a quarter for every time I heard the phrase, "You wanna know how much I've spent at Best Buy over the last several years?!" If that were the case, then there's a lot of filthy rich people around!!! Wow, I wish I knew of how to get one of these well-paying jobs so I could get one! And most of these people will go into great detail about every little product they've bought from us over the span of these many, many years. Whether you've spent $1 or $1 million at Best Buy, same rules apply to everyone, no special treatment; or our guidelines would include something like "if customer has spent [insert however much money here] at Best Buy, then give them special treatment", but you'll find that nowhere in our SOP. Same rules and same treatment apply as everyone else, no matter how much they've spent with us. However, we all do greatly appreciate the business and the support! :-)

Why the restocking fees? I know, they suck, but I also understand why we have them. Unfortunately, there's a lot of people out there that does unethical things such as "temporarily purchase" or "rent" certain items without wanting to go to a rental store and actually pay money in the long run, and ruin it for everyone else who would actually like to "test drive" a product for a little while before determining if we really want it or not. Trust me on this one, I understand. But a lot of people would only like to use a laptop or a radar detector for a trip they're going on, only to bring it back after the trip's over with. There's plenty of rental stores out there that handle these types of situations, and your local retailer isn't one of them. They're there to "sale", not to give "free rentals". And you also have to remember that the retailer then has to resale the product at a markdown, even to the point of taking a loss just to get rid of it out of our inventory. Most people won't buy a "used" computer unless it's marked-down to the point of desperation by the company. Remember when I mentioned above about the little profit Best Buy makes on computers? So, unfortunately, there's a reason restocking fees are set in place.

Now, onto the "service side" of it all...

Almost all products have some sort of manufacturer warranty, whether it be for 90 days to 5 years, and this warranty completely depends upon the type of product it is to the manufacturer. Most products we sell have a 1 year manufacturer's warranty. This warranty ONLY covers defects, meaning that if something went wrong while the product was being made or because of the lack of quality or "workmanship" put into the product, then it's covered. Such as if one day the TV was powering on and the next day it isn't, and as long as no one or nothing did anything to the TV, then it should be covered under the 1 year warranty if it was purchased less than a year ago. And just because you didn't open the product for 6 months until you decided to use it has absolutely no bearing of when the warranty starts. How are we supposed to know when you decided to use the product? All we have in writing to go by is the date of when it was purchased. There's no "timer" inside that TV that tells us when it was powered on for the first time. So, the warranty starts on the purchase date, not when it was actually used for the first time.

Defects only include if the product broke on its own without any help whatsoever. This means that if you stepped on it, poured a drink on it, accidentally squeezed it too hard, dropped it, whatever the case may be, the manufacturer warranty doesn't cover it for repair or replacement. I see people bring in portable products all of the time, several times a week, with cracked LCD screens. Trust me, we're thoroughly trained at the Geek Squad to tell the difference between what a cracked LCD screen looks like from too much "pressure" applied to it, being left out in the car and heat messing it up, to it just not working right. All of these effects on an LCD screen look completely different from each other. If your cell phone's LCD screen was in your pocket and now it has a cracked LCD screen, something happened, whether it be your car keys or you sat on it wrong, something happened. Manufacturer's warranty doesn't cover "butt damage". So, if you try to bring-in something with a cracked LCD screen and try to say, "it just happened for no reason", you're probably the 6th person we've already heard that from, just today. I can usually point out where the "pressure" was applied to the LCD screen, and how it "spider-webbed" out, like a cracked windshield on a vehicle. It's no different than a rock cracking windshield of a vehicle. If not, then we'd see a lot more LCD desktop computer monitors and LCD TVs with the same problems. It's odd how it only happens to small, portable devices with LCD screens, such as cell phones, PDAs, MP3 players, etc,. Hmm… how interesting…

Now, as far as the store warranty goes (Best Buy calls them either Product Replacement Plans or Product Service Plans), they do generally cover more than what the manufacturer does and for longer periods of time, but still doesn't cover "accidental damage due to abuse or neglect", unless you pay extra for what we refer to as ADH (Accidental Damage from Handling). Now let's start from the beginning. On most products we sell you can purchase a store warranty on. Usually, if the product costs less than $200 or so (at the time of this writing), then you can purchase a Replacement Plan on it, meaning that if the product stops working as it should, then you should be able to get another one. However, for most "big ticket" items in the store (usually $200 or more), it's a Service Plan, meaning that we have to attempt to "service" the product before we can replace it. Now, what's covered and what's not covered…

Everything the manufacturer covers in their warranty is also covered under the PRP (Product Replacement Plan) and the PSP (Product Service Plan), meaning defects. Also, MINOR damages done from "environmental effects" are also covered, such as dust, heat, humidity, power surges, etc. Stepping on it, spilling a drink on it, dropping it, etc., still isn't covered. Then on a very few products, mostly laptops, you can pay extra to get the ADH (Accidental Damage from Handling), which does cover stepping on it, spilling a drink on it, dropping it, etc. (also, at the time of this writing). However, you still can't go swimming with it (total submersion in any liquids), or run over it with your car and bring it in a plastic bag in millions of pieces (we actually had a customer do that before!). So, even with ADH, there's still some limitations of what's covered and what's not covered, but we're usually pretty lenient. We repaired or replaced (can't remember) a laptop that came into the store in about 5 pieces that was literally dropped from a hotel room of about 5 floors up. So, I got to see what a laptop looks like when dropped from the 5th floor of a hotel room. Pretty neat. :-)

We also don't determine if a product qualifies to be replaced or repaired, either. That's all setup by our manufacturers (if under their warranty) or by our corporate office in our computer system. Simple as that. We'll do whatever it is we can do for you and as quickly as possible. If we can repair it in-store, then we'll try to do so. But we can only repair products in-store if we sell the replacement part in the store. In other words, if it's a part that has to be ordered, more than likely we won't be able to repair it in the store. So, if you bring a defective product in that we have to send off to the service center to be repaired, end of story, and that's all we can do. Even our registers are setup where it makes it almost impossible for us to replace or refund money back on a product that we're not supposed to do so with. So asking for a manager to over-ride our SOP is usually futile, even if the manager wants to give you your money back, good luck with trying to get that to go through with the register! Unfortunately, our registers aren't like the simple registers people used to use back in the "good ole' days". No, they're full-fledged computer systems, programmed with specific, extremely complex software made for Best Buy, and only allow us to do certain, specific tasks we're only allowed to perform. Our register system (known as POS, or Point Of Sale) usually doesn't give us the option to do anything that's outside of our SOP guidelines. It's like trying to make your home computer do cartwheels. Unless your computer was supplied with a "Cartwheel" button, then I highly doubt it'll be able to do so. Same difference with our registers. I've screamed and yelled at our registers many numerous times, but don't seem to help any. And Best Buy keeps updating their POS software in such a way that they take more and more "freedom", or control (however you wanna look at it) from us, the store employees, for us to "better serve the customer".

Ok, many people are also confused about our "No Lemon Exchange Policy". No matter what someone may have told you, the rules regarding our No Lemon Exchange Policy is that the product has to have been repaired 3 previous times before it can be exchanged on the 4th repair. Now what's considered a "repair"? Anytime a single physical part or numerous physical parts have been replaced all at one time is considered a "repair". Repairing or reloading software, such as Windows, isn't considered a repair. Why not? Because software fails due to too many reasons that has nothing to do with the actual physical parts of a computer. Between viruses, adware, spyware, malware, installing updates or software incorrectly, it seems that Windows is always hanging in there by a thread, waiting to break! So, unless it's a physical part that was replaced, it's not considered a "repair". Also, to add more to the confusion, we're not "authorized" to approve the exchange in the store. Nope, it has to be sent back off again to the service center, for the 4th time, to get approved for an exchange. Don't ask why, but only the service center has the "authority" to approve No Lemon Exchanges. They then send the paperwork to our corporate office, and then eventually it's updated in our system that it's been approved for an exchange. I always try to tell customers to give it a few days after they've received the phone call from the service center that their product has been approved for an exchange before actually coming into the store. For some reason, it usually takes a few days for our system to update it after corporate office chews on it during this period.

Also, if you need technical help or advice over the phone, we're not allowed to help you there, either. We're only "authorized" technical help for customers who bring their product in the store. The reason being is that we're not allowed to take ANY credit card information over the phone whatsoever (due to privacy reasons), and we have to charge people for services not covered under warranties. That's how we make money and keep our jobs. Best Buy runs Geek Squad as a separate, independent company, meaning that we don't get money from any products you buy in the store, but only from the services you buy with the products or separately. So, if you need help with something over the phone, you're more than welcome to call the manufacturer of the product (you can usually find their number on their website), or you can call 1-800-GEEK-SQUAD (1-800-433-5778) for tech support. They can take credit cards over the phone, and will want to charge you for tech support (that's how they make their money, also). They can even schedule to have a Geek Squad Agent (technician) come out to your house (something we can't schedule in-store) for extra money than it is to bring it into our store. Reason being is that when you bring a product in-store, I'm usually working on anything up to 5 or more computers at a time, meaning 5 or more customers at once. Having a technician come out to your house means that you have their undivided attention, and may be able to repair your product faster, without having to pack-up the product, drive however many miles it is to your local retailer, stand in line, and then watch us multitask between you and umpteen other customers. Plus, you're paying for their gas and not yours.

Ok, now that's I've went into enough detail that could probably get me fired, here's some tips I highly recommend to do when purchasing a "big ticket item", or an item you deem as "expensive" or "important". What I deem as "expensive" or "important" is based upon the item costing roughly about 2% or so of my yearly income, or how often I use the product. These items may include, but not limited to computers, TVs, home stereo systems, and appliances:
1. Learn and know the return policies of where you bought it from, especially how many days and if there's a restocking fee. And just because you purchase another similar product a year later doesn't mean that the return policy is still the same. Corporations may and will change their return policies often. The best people to ask about the return policies are those that have to work with it and know it every day… your friendly customer service people! :-)
2. Learn and know the product's warranty and ask for the full details about the store's warranty. Many retailers offer their own store warranty that's usually longer than the manufacturer's warranty, and generally covers more issues and problems. The best people to ask are the in-store technicians, if the retailer provides them (Geek Squad at Best Buy, Firedog at Circuit City, etc.), since we all have to live and breathe the rules and restrictions of both the manufacturer's and the store's warranties. If they don't have any in-store technicians to ask, then the customer service people would be the ones to ask. I'm not trying to demean the sales reps, but sometimes, the "newbies" (just newly hired) don't know everything there is to know about warranties, inside and out. If anyone tells you that their warranty covers "everything", immediately ask or find someone else, because I've yet found ANY warranty that covers EVERYTHING!
3. Hold onto all receipts, boxes, packaging materials, accessories, etc. (basically, anything and everything that came with the product), at least until the return policy is up. I realize that most corporate retailers can look-up most of your previous purchases, but holding onto your receipts helps returning the product a lot easier and faster for both the customer service people and for you! Also, computers, being what they are, can also "lose" transactions made, so don't depend upon your retailer 100% to keep track of your purchases. Just because this doesn't happen very often doesn't mean that I've never seen it happen... I have.
4. If possible, file away your receipts in a box or a filing cabinet, and throw them away either monthly or yearly (depending upon how big the box is or how many products your purchase) once the manufacturer's or the store's warranty runs out. If certain products break (such as appliances, cameras, camcorders, TVs, or home theater systems) after the warranty runs out, in all honesty, it's usually cheaper to replace them than to repair them. Not only do you have to purchase the parts needed for repair, but also pay about $60 an hour (or more!) for a technician to repair it! Not usually worth it.
5. And if you run into any issues or problems, usually it's best to contact the company's corporate office. In fact, Best Buy's phone number is 1-888-BEST-BUY, if you ever need it. Press "1" for English, press "2" for Spanish, and then press "2" again to speak to a real live person. This person will then direct your call to whatever department it applies to. Sometimes speaking to a manager may resolve a minor issue, but usually not, because their hands are as just as bound by SOP as the rest of us, and they're not willing to jeopardize their jobs, either! And if calling our corporate office number doesn't help, then in all honesty, all you can do at this point is file a complaint at the same number you just called, and perhaps if enough people complain about the same issue, maybe Best Buy or the corporation you have the issue with might change their policies if they think they may lose too much money in the long run from lack of business. But, keep in mind, with all of the millions of other customers we have world-wide (800+ stores in the US and growing, and even stores in other countries), it's an act of God or congress to change our SOP. Godspeed.

Well, I think that covers it all. I hope this may have helped anyone who's faced problems with a corporation. Always remember, they'll help you as far as they can until it costs them money and piss off their stockholders. However, if you come into my store needing help, I promise you that I'll help you in any way I can, within Best Buy's and Geek Squad's rules and procedures, without jeopardizing my job.